Strange twists of fate, interest and passion determine the unexpected turn of events. This is what happened to the hero of this interview - his favorite law career could not withstand his passion for Moscow. Moscow expert and tour guide Alexey Dedushkin speaks about his favorite streets and buildings that are of great architectural value.
Alexey Mikhailovich, you are a lawyer by education, but your tours, books and other projects reveal you as a person deeply in love with Moscow. When and how did your love affair with the city begin?
In my early childhood, I guess. My grandfather was very passionate about Moscow, and I inherited this passion from him. I was very little when, during a walk, he told me stories associated with the capital, old buildings, squares and courtyards. That is when my love for the city began. As I got older, I became even more passionate about Moscow.
Many world capitals have recognizable “postcard” views - blocks, buildings, art objects that become a symbol of the city. There also a lot of Moscow views that convey the atmosphere of the city. Could you name at least three such symbols of Moscow?
Let me be clear: are we talking about modern Moscow or its historical architecture?
This is a great point! We discuss both historical and modern buildings.
The historical route starts with the Kremlin, Red Square and Alexander Garden. It also includes Maroseyka, Pokrovka, Petrovka, Bolshaya Nikitskaya and Kuznetsky Most - these streets preserved the memory of the old city.
They are very colorful places! What do you say about modern buildings and neighborhoods?
I will start with what I do not like - Moscow-City. But no matter how I feel about this area, it is rightfully very popular among Moscow visitors. It appeals to everyone.
There are several interesting buildings near Ostozhenka Street included in the famous Golden Mile project. The Italian quarter on Dolgorukovskaya Street, although many criticize it, is also quite good. The modern architecture of Barkhin and Filippov and the church architecture of Anisimov impress me too. Certainly, I cannot imagine Moscow without the “seven sisters” - Stalin’s high-rise buildings and monumental avenues of that era.
In co-authorship with Irina Levina, you published the book “Palaces, Houses and Estates: The Second Birth”. Which of the capital's architectural monuments is definitely worth visiting for those who love the city just like you? Which place can impresses you not only with its aesthetics but also with its rich history?
The line could be drawn between must-see and available sites. As for available sites, I would recommend visiting the Morozov estate in Podsosensky Lane, where beautiful interiors designed by F. Shekhtel and M. Vrubel have been preserved. Of course, the history of the estate owners is also curious - the Morozov family is closely connected with Russian culture.
Soon the Volkov-Yusupov Chambers in Kharitonyevsky Lane, the Chambers of the Romanov Boyars and the Chambers of the Old English Court on Varvarka Street will be available to visitors. This list goes on and on, but not each object can be visited.
It is true that historical buildings are either being restored, or, as in the case of our Enterprise, are occupied by diplomatic missions. Of course, the latest digital technologies are very helpful. Do you use them in your tours?
Sometimes I do. Today it is much more convenient to show what historical streets and buildings looked like in the past. I have all these images at my fingertips.
You are the author of more than 130 tours, which one is the most favorite and special for you and why?
There are more than 150 of them, in addition to bus tours. I love Ivanovskaya Gorka, I have five tours there - this is one of my favorites. I really admire Rozhdestvenskaya Street and Neglinnaya Street. I love Petrovka, Maroseyka and its alleys running towards Myasnitskaya Street, Petrovka Street and Ivanovskaya Gorka. These routes are associated with the old city.
I also have a series of walks called “Double-Exit Courtyards”. We do not only walk through courtyards, but we also see many artifacts that seem to be hidden from the residents: memorials, monuments.
Which of your tours would you recommend for someone who just starts exploring the city?
If you have one day in Moscow, the Kremlin is the best choice. You can also walk along any of the streets that we have already talked about - they have their original appearance and atmosphere of the old city. Your tour will depend on your interests - some people are interested in Stalin’s Moscow, others like Constructivism or Art Nouveau.
Is there a mansion, house or estate where you have not been yet but would really like to visit?
Almost all of them are under the jurisdiction of GlavUpDK under the MFA of Russia (laughing). For example, the mansion of F. Shekhtel in Ermolaevsky Lane, the mansion of P. Kharitonenko on Sofiyskaya Embankment.
I was lucky enough to visit the Russian Foreign Ministry's Reception House - Morozova mansion on Spiridonovka - the most interesting building, the beauty of the façades and interiors is mesmerizing. I was also impressed by the mansion on Prechistenka Street, where S. Yesenin and A. Duncan once lived. It is now the administrative building of GlavUpDK.
Which of the city's secrets, mysteries or mystical stories impresses you the most?
I am not really interested in mysticism; I do not focus on it during my tours. For example, there is a story related to Jacob Bruce, the statesman and military leader, scientist and associate of Peter the Great. He is known both for his magical experiments and for the secret royal council “Neptune Society”, which he headed. The society had a magical “Black Book”, which was guarded by 12 spirits and which Bruce did not even give to Peter the Great. Many legends have spread due to popular rumors about Bruce. This is an example of a story that is more likely to make you smile.
There is another city legend: it is believed that the monument to Alexander Pushkin near Moscow was erected to honor the renovated city, but not for his work and contribution to literature.
There are also mystical stories saying that Razumovsky’s estate on the Yauza River was teeming with ghosts that frightened its residents in different periods of history. This legend is based on the fact that the count collected figurines of gods, and heir spirits settled in the estate.
What is your favorite area of Moscow?
They are Rozhdestvenka, Petrovka and Neglinnaya streets where I lived a considerable part of my life, where I studied and grew up. I even joke sometimes that my education is “monastic” - for four years I attended the school on the site of the former, and now open Nativity of the Mother of God Monastery. When our school was closed, I was transferred to a school that was located on the site of the Sretensky Monastery. These streets, this area are all about my childhood, so these places are very dear to my heart.